People hold many different perceptions of California, one I
have had for many years is John Muir. Over the past few weeks we have been
enjoying the adventure of retracing the steps of the “Father of the National
Parks”. We have visited Yosemite NP, Kings Canyon, NP, Sequoia NP, John Muir
National Historic Site, and Muir Woods (and Beach).
John Muir, a Scottish immigrant settled with his family in
Wisconsin near Portage. He worked alongside his family farming in Wisconsin
soil and beginning to evolve his sense of wonder. As the Civil War began, he
enrolled in University of Wisconsin where he began to study things of interest
to him; nature, geology, botany, etc. He postponed his schooling and entered
the work force in various settings. Work was too unfulfilling and mundane,
adventure and exploration was much more appealing. Muir began his 1,000 mile
walk from Kentucky to the Gulf of Mexico. He then sailed to Cuba. “Short on
money and ill with fever, he sailed instead to New York and from there in
steerage, to Panama and California” (National Park Service). He arrived in San
Francisco and headed east to the Sierras where his most famous experiences are
rooted.
He was an interesting man and had a very interesting life.
Please check out for more information.
We began our adventure in Yosemite. My excitement climbed as
we took the steep winding road that led us over the foothills and into the
Sierras. I have always wanted to visit Yosemite Valley, especially after
learning more about it. I don’t exactly remember when I learned about the
National Parks, but they have always been appealing to me. Ansel Adams to John
Muir and Ken Burns, Yosemite has always been on my list to see. We visited all
the highlights: Yosemite Falls, Bridal Veil Falls, Glacier Point, Yosemite Valley,
Ahwanee Hotel, Curry Village, etc. Hiking was somewhat limited due to the dog…but
that’s okay. The beautifully carved Yosemite Valley, views of Half Dome, El
Capitan, it was all stunning.
We traveled not terribly far to Kings Canyon National Parkand Sequoia National Park, they are neighbors! Kings Canyon is fairly small and
several sections were closed due to a wild fire. We stopped to view General
Grant, a beautifully massive sequoia. There is a trail that encircles the grove
of sequoias. There were many large, old trees with names. The “Monarch” a
fallen sequoia was set up as a tunnel for park visitors to walk though.
General Grant
Governors Highway, the scenic drive to Sequoia was still
open (it closes in winter). We traveled through the cathedral like forests (Muir’s
words, not mine) and stopped to view the valleys between the towering granite
peaks. Occasionally, it is just nice to sit and soak it all in. We really
lucked out with the weather. Several passes had been closed until the day we
arrived and then were closed for the season the day after we left.
Sequoia has the “leafy temples” that Muir writes about. We
stopped to view General Sherman. I can’t even put into word the enormity of
this one tree. It’s neighbors too! These trees are beautifully tall and
straight. Their branches begin at least a hundred feet up and then reach and
cascade over any forest goers. General Sherman doesn’t grow taller anymore the
top part is dead but it continued to grow wider every year. It’s amazing to me
how resilient they are to pests, fires, etc. The only place on Earth these
grow, is the western face of the Sierra Nevada range. I consider myself lucky
to have the opportunity to breathe in the clean air around them…and hug them!
Several days after visiting Yosemite, Kings Canyon, and
Sequoia a visit to John Muir’s home just felt like a natural next step. Muir
eventually married and settled down at the family home of his wife just
northeast of San Francisco in Martinez. His father-in, a fruit rancher took
Muir under his wing and taught him the ropes. He stayed here to write his
articles and books in his “scribble den”. We took a tour of family home,
through the orchards, viewed the adobe house, and saw the sequoia tree that
Muir planted on the premise. We then hiked Mt. Wanda, which Muir named after
his daughter. As we reached the top, Mt. Helen was visible. Muir named this
after his other daughter. It was a nice climb with many birds along the way. This area is now protected by NPS at the John Muir National Historic Site.
Just yesterday, we visited Muir Woods (and Beach) as well.
The redwood groves here are equally as impressive as the sequoias. The redwoods
are taller, but sequoias are wider. Like the sequoias, redwoods are unique in
their locations growing in Coastal Northern California and Oregon. Coastal
redwoods are the tallest living things ranging from 500-1000 yrs old. They have
incredibly spongy bark approximately 6-12 inches thick. Their root system is
fairly shallow, a mere 10-13 Ft deep but can spread out to ~100ft. We walked
the main path through the famous groves. Visitors are asked to remain quiet in
these reflective and meditative areas and most abide by the suggestions with
faint whispers.
All around, this experience indescribable as well. I would
recommend a visit or an add to your bucket list, however it is worth noting
that there is not a lot of parking and this is a very busy, popular National
Monument. $7/person or a parks pass will award you this once in a lifetime experience.
