Bodega Bay to Crescent City

The PCH to the South was a blast. We really enjoyed following the coast so the next weekend, we decided to head north on 1 and 101 up to Redwood State and National Parks.

The entire drive, once again was beautiful. There was a bit of haze, fog, marine layer over the headlands in the morning which made for a different feel. It was a bit chilly and cloudy, but we were ready to embark north to check off yet more items on our bucketlist.

Leaving the East Bay fairly early, we met up with the 1 in Bodega Bay. We meandered our way from Bodega Bay to Fort Bragg for our first day. We made stops at Point Arena, Stornetta Public Lands, Little River, Van Damme State Park, Mendocino (including Mendocino Headlands), and MacKerricher State Park in Fort Bragg. I wanted to see the sea glass beach in Fort Bragg but we weren't able to find it while it was still light out so we watched the sun set at MacKerricher and headed back into Fort Bragg to eat and sleep. As the sun set, there were four harbor seals in just off the coast that were paying extra special attention to us. They took turns popping up and down and watching us. I thought this was very cool, but as it turns out there are pretty territorial and were most likely making sure we weren't going in the water... or Kobi for that matter.

 

Stornetta Public Lands was a dog friendly place, wide open with lots of opportunities to watch the waves crash into the cliffs.

Pygmy forest, Van Damme State Park near Little River, CA
All growth is stunted due to the ancient soil the plants are growing on. It doesn't contain a lot of nutrients anymore. These trees look young, however they are quite old. 

Mendocino Headlands

Sunset at MacKerricher State Park, Fort Bragg

We stopped at North Coast Brewing Company! We were very satisfied with our choice. Gourmet pizzas and craft beer! mmm I was even able to do a little Christmas Shopping in the gift shop attached to the restaurant!

The next morning we found the sea glass beach. Interestingly enough, the beach site was a landfill. Eventually, the trash was cleaned up but many broken glass pieces and bottles were too numerous to remove. After years of wave after, the pieces were polished. There is virtually no sand, it is all wave tumbled and polished sea glass. You are not supposed to take any! 

We continued on 1 as far as we could go and then eventually had to turn on to 101 toward Leggett where some people are able to drive through a drive. The car was too big so we drove around it and then walked through it! Still very cool. The redwoods are incredible. Yes, it sounds like I am using a lot of big and wonderful adjectives but I truly believe there is no great way to describe the enormity and the beauty of these trees. They are almost magical in a sense. They are resilient, strong, beautiful, tall, and collectively groves of these trees are enchanting. Pictures and videos cannot even fully capture the details of what it is like to be in the presence of such a species. 

Driving north on 101 from Leggett, we drove through Avenue of the Giants. More trees and touristy places to view tree drive-thrus, tree houses, tree cafes, etc. The Ave. of the Giants was so enjoyable, we did it on the way home too! The drive along the coast with redwoods towering around you every now and then is a bit surreal. Everything is green, lush, and just beautiful! We continued into the various state parks and to the National Park visitor center. We went up to Crescent City, but as it started to rain Eureka was looking like a better place to fill out bellies and settle in for the night. 

Lost Coast Brewery, a great place for dinner with a fun atmosphere and obviously good beer was not the only fun place we found in Eureka. The Local Beer Bar had some great beers on tap, this is where I enjoyed the best sour I've ever had. The Black Lightning Motorcycle Cafe was a neat shop that serve both breakfast and coffee and host live music with beer in the evenings. Half is a cafe and half is a motorcycle shop.

The next morning we had a long way back to go so we didn't follow the same route. We took 101 all the way back with gave us some different scenery. Although, we did the Avenue of the Giants again we continued along 101 and had the opportunity to stop at Parducci, a local and sustainable winery. Then, we stopped at a brewery for lunch...yes a lot of alcohol for an afternoon but why not indulge when you have the opportunity. 

It was another great long weekend enjoying some of California's best!

John Muir Sampler: Yosemite, Kings Canyon, Sequoia, John's Home and Muir Woods

People hold many different perceptions of California, one I have had for many years is John Muir. Over the past few weeks we have been enjoying the adventure of retracing the steps of the “Father of the National Parks”. We have visited Yosemite NP, Kings Canyon, NP, Sequoia NP, John Muir National Historic Site, and Muir Woods (and Beach).

John Muir, a Scottish immigrant settled with his family in Wisconsin near Portage. He worked alongside his family farming in Wisconsin soil and beginning to evolve his sense of wonder. As the Civil War began, he enrolled in University of Wisconsin where he began to study things of interest to him; nature, geology, botany, etc. He postponed his schooling and entered the work force in various settings. Work was too unfulfilling and mundane, adventure and exploration was much more appealing. Muir began his 1,000 mile walk from Kentucky to the Gulf of Mexico. He then sailed to Cuba. “Short on money and ill with fever, he sailed instead to New York and from there in steerage, to Panama and California” (National Park Service). He arrived in San Francisco and headed east to the Sierras where his most famous experiences are rooted.

He was an interesting man and had a very interesting life. Please check out for more information.

We began our adventure in Yosemite. My excitement climbed as we took the steep winding road that led us over the foothills and into the Sierras. I have always wanted to visit Yosemite Valley, especially after learning more about it. I don’t exactly remember when I learned about the National Parks, but they have always been appealing to me. Ansel Adams to John Muir and Ken Burns, Yosemite has always been on my list to see. We visited all the highlights: Yosemite Falls, Bridal Veil Falls, Glacier Point, Yosemite Valley, Ahwanee Hotel, Curry Village, etc. Hiking was somewhat limited due to the dog…but that’s okay. The beautifully carved Yosemite Valley, views of Half Dome, El Capitan, it was all stunning.

We traveled not terribly far to Kings Canyon National Parkand Sequoia National Park, they are neighbors! Kings Canyon is fairly small and several sections were closed due to a wild fire. We stopped to view General Grant, a beautifully massive sequoia. There is a trail that encircles the grove of sequoias. There were many large, old trees with names. The “Monarch” a fallen sequoia was set up as a tunnel for park visitors to walk though.

General Grant 

Governors Highway, the scenic drive to Sequoia was still open (it closes in winter). We traveled through the cathedral like forests (Muir’s words, not mine) and stopped to view the valleys between the towering granite peaks. Occasionally, it is just nice to sit and soak it all in. We really lucked out with the weather. Several passes had been closed until the day we arrived and then were closed for the season the day after we left.

Sequoia has the “leafy temples” that Muir writes about. We stopped to view General Sherman. I can’t even put into word the enormity of this one tree. It’s neighbors too! These trees are beautifully tall and straight. Their branches begin at least a hundred feet up and then reach and cascade over any forest goers. General Sherman doesn’t grow taller anymore the top part is dead but it continued to grow wider every year. It’s amazing to me how resilient they are to pests, fires, etc. The only place on Earth these grow, is the western face of the Sierra Nevada range. I consider myself lucky to have the opportunity to breathe in the clean air around them…and hug them! 

Several days after visiting Yosemite, Kings Canyon, and Sequoia a visit to John Muir’s home just felt like a natural next step. Muir eventually married and settled down at the family home of his wife just northeast of San Francisco in Martinez. His father-in, a fruit rancher took Muir under his wing and taught him the ropes. He stayed here to write his articles and books in his “scribble den”. We took a tour of family home, through the orchards, viewed the adobe house, and saw the sequoia tree that Muir planted on the premise. We then hiked Mt. Wanda, which Muir named after his daughter. As we reached the top, Mt. Helen was visible. Muir named this after his other daughter. It was a nice climb with many birds along the way. This area is now protected by NPS at the John Muir National Historic Site.

Just yesterday, we visited Muir Woods (and Beach) as well. The redwood groves here are equally as impressive as the sequoias. The redwoods are taller, but sequoias are wider. Like the sequoias, redwoods are unique in their locations growing in Coastal Northern California and Oregon. Coastal redwoods are the tallest living things ranging from 500-1000 yrs old. They have incredibly spongy bark approximately 6-12 inches thick. Their root system is fairly shallow, a mere 10-13 Ft deep but can spread out to ~100ft. We walked the main path through the famous groves. Visitors are asked to remain quiet in these reflective and meditative areas and most abide by the suggestions with faint whispers.

All around, this experience indescribable as well. I would recommend a visit or an add to your bucket list, however it is worth noting that there is not a lot of parking and this is a very busy, popular National Monument. $7/person or a parks pass will award you this once in a lifetime experience.